With one fell swoop, I can correct the depth and shape of the existing channel and can make the truss rod more effective (which, in this case means 'actually works without bursting through the neck’). Since I haven’t filled the truss rod channel completely, I decide to make use of it to guide my router (Dremel tool mounted in a router base). I can worry about finish on it later on because I’ll be touching up around the fingerboard too. I’ve roughly cut a piece of scrap pick guard material to the same footprint as the router base and double-stick taped it to the base. Adjust both clamps to the same height as the distance between the guitar neck and the bench. After all of this, I’m left with a perfectly straight neck with no tension on the truss rod. This means I can glue in my new maple strips while the neck is ‘artificially’ held straight. Check out Part 1 and Part 2 for more info if you're just joining us. When this wood fillet is inserted into the truss rod channel, I can slide it along the channel and guide the router. My former tech & fav builder, Eric Daw, pinupcustomguitars.com, has a heated neck straightening jig. I removed the fingerboard to access the neck face beneath and then removed the wood fillet keeping the truss rod in place. What I found was what appeared to be a straight truss rod channel that had been improperly cut from the factory. Carbon fibre rods are a common method to add strength to guitar and bass necks. It’s composed of two pieces: 1) the base and 2) the sled. The sled moves along the rails while the router moves within the sled The depth of the cut is achieved by changing the router bit depth. Some additional strength, I think. Then I shaped the bottom of the fillet to match the odd profile at the bottom of the channel. Jot down the distance. Set up two bench clamps approximately 12 inches apart. You'll want a flat and clear surface to work on while removing frets from the neck of... 2. Heat-straightening necks is predicated on one of two notions: 1) that you can heat a piece of wood to the point that it goes limp and you can clamp it while it's in a more ideal state and then let it cool that way. I’ve used and off-cut of maple fillet (slightly thinned) and stuck that to the router base a particular distance from the router bit. When I remove the guitar from the jig, this should give me a head-start towards ‘natural’ straightness. All seemed well so, back on it went (those Gibson fretboard ‘locating pins’ are quite helpful at this stage). With easy access to the ‘internals’, this is pretty straightforward. Given the bow — and what this guitar’s been through — I’m going to add some additional reinforcement while I have the chance to do so easily. When one side’s done, I rotate the router 180º around and cut a similar channel on the other side of the truss rod. And there you go. Guitar Workstation / Fret Press. Guitar String Action & Neck Relief. Simple mod to speed up working with the Erlewine Neck Jig. Apply steam to the top of the fretboard. The channel had an odd kink and was routed to less than 1mm from the rear surface of the neck. However, in order to comply with privacy regulations, I also need you to provide consent to store and process the information you've entered. The truss rod channel work here was a little unusual, to be sure, but it helped straighten the neck and provided a means to make the truss rod, you know… work. This meant the routed channels were straight and the newly glued carbon fibre rods went in 'straight'. Made from Aluminum this jig allows for precise neck alignment and control giving you a perfect neck joint. On a regular, unbound, neck, the wood of the fingerboard runs from edge to edge along the neck. Guitar necks, especially on older guitars, can sometimes form a warp or twist from years of string tension while being stored in hot attics, closets or anywhere it gets hot enough to soften the glue under the fretboard. And, let’s face it, what more can we ask for? , This article written by Gerry Hayes and first published at hazeguitars.com, Tagged: guitar, bass, repair, luthier, warp, bow, neck, neck deformation. This increase the action at the 12th fret from 5/64" to 7/64" (measuring from the 6th string with a capo on the 1st fret), which was quiet noticeable when playing the guitar. And, even though I knew the work I’d done, you’d better believe I was nervous tightening that truss rod for the first time. Place an old T-shirt or sheet over the fretboard so that the heat doesn’t damage the finish. I don't do spam and you can unsubscribe at any time. Fixing the depth problem means installing a fillet of wood that will sit under the truss rod. Basically the guitar absorbed too mush moister, which made the neck bend upward right at the heal, (where the neck joins the body). Don’t forget that our neck’s taken on quite a bow and I need to keep that in mind as I proceed. It’s too damn deep and, as is, it’s just not going to allow the truss rod to work properly. Messages 162. Jun 12, 2014 #1 I've got an Ibanez S470 which I picked up from a pawn shop a few years ago. Cutting a truss rod channel into the fillet BEFORE installing. Thread starter Invertiguy; Start date Jun 12, 2014; I. Invertiguy Member. Straightening a bowed neck. But, thing is, the music shop said it would be well over £220. Way, it also doubles as a permanent for one 's hair I remove the guitar neck and newly!, face up on your work table while the neck of... 2 guide to setting up own... A rough surface or thick-nessing a board what more can we ask for Eric Daw,,... Along the length of the guitar from the Fretboard so that the fret slots also run from to... 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